Peru: The Real Indian Jones: Hiram Bingham and the Lost City of the Incas
Machu Picchu is unquestionably one of the world’s most spectacular archaeological sites. Also known as “Lost City of the Incas,” Machu Picchu is a 15th century complex of structures built on a mountain saddle in southern Peru. Located 80 kilometers northwest of Cusco, it lies within a mild subtropical region between the Andes Mountains and the Amazon Rainforest. In the Quechua language, machu means “old” and picchu means “peak.” With polished stonework, terraced fields, and a sophisticated irrigation system, the citadel is positioned on a 2,430-meter ridge between two peaks, Machu Picchu and Huayna Picchu. Sitting above a cloud forest, the site offers panoramic views of Urubamba Valley. Most archaeologists believe Machu Picchu was built as a vacation retreat for the Incan Emperor Pachacuti (1438-1472). Along with serving Inca royalty, the building complex operated as a center for administrative and religious activities.
Constructed in 1450, Machu Picchu sustained a year-round population of 750, mostly workers. To fill specific roles, the Inca brought skilled craftsmen and laborers from recently conquered tribes. The settlement’s climate was warm and humid with a mean temperature of 18°C. Residents kept a herd of 2,400 to 4,000 llamas and alpacas as a source of meat and to serve as pets. Guinea pigs were also brought to the site for ceremonies and sacrifice. Machu Picchu residents grew maize, potatoes, and other crops on andenes (terraces) constructed on steep slopes. Covering about 4.9 hectares, the flat terraces facilitated drainage and helped improve soil fertility while preventing landslides and erosion. The terraces were held in place by stone retaining walls. A network of canals provided water for irrigating crops with stone staircases connected various levels. The site was accessible by two high altitude trails, one passing through the Sun Gate and the other crossing Inca Bridge. Both entrances could be blocked in the event of an attack.
Since the Inca followed an oral tradition for sharing their history, no written records document the site. It is believed that Machu Picchu was abandoned sometime in the mid-16th century, at approximately the time the Incan Empire was conquered by the Spanish. Subsequently, the area was consumed by jungle vegetation. In 1911, American explorer Hiram Bingham traveled to the area while searching for the lost capital of the Incan civilization. Born in 1875, Bingham earned a Ph.D. in history before becoming a Yale University professor. His marriage to the heiress of the Tiffany Jewelry Company provided resources to finance his international expeditions. After hearing about the mountaintop city from locals he asked a young boy to escort him to the site. The treacherous route forced Bingham and his guide to crawl across a bridge of slender logs bound with vines and through brush infested with pit vipers. On arriving, he found the name of Peruvian explorer Agustin Lazárraga, written in charcoal on the side of the Temple of the Three Windows. Later, Bingham learned that Lazárraga had visited Machu Picchu in 1902. Although not first to reach the site, Bingham received credit for bringing Machu Picchu to the attention of the world. With financial support from Yale and the National Geographic Society, he returned in 1912 to excavate buildings and grounds. The next year he published photos of Machu Picchu in the April 1913 issue of National Geographic magazine. Some believe that Dr. Bingham’s exploits inspired the movie character “Indian Jones,” played by Harrison Ford. In 1981 Peru designated a 325 square kilometer area around the site as an historic sanctuary and in 1983 Machu Picchu became an UNESCO World Heritage Site. Today, visitors arrive by train or bus. Especially ambitious travelers walk the 43-kilometer Inca Trail which zigzags through lesser-known Inca sites before reaching the Sun Gate.
Our train to Machu Picchu departed Cusco for the three-and-a-half-hour trip. Riding in the first-class car, my son and I sat in wingback chairs that faced a small table. We arrived at Aguas Calientes in the late afternoon. Located along the Urubamba River and at the base of Machu Picchu Mountain, the town occupies both sides of the railroad track. The next morning, we boarded a bus for the 30-minute drive to the archaeological site. Positioned 400 meters above Aguas Calientes, the site receives about 1.5 million visitors every year. To limit impacts on the site, only 5,000 tourists are permitted to visit each day.
Machu Picchu is characterized by stone buildings, terraced slopes, and breathtaking views. We stopped for a few minutes at an overlook that provided a panorama of the massive complex of buildings in front of Huayna Picchu. The site’s 150 structures include sanctuaries, temples, houses, and baths. People of lower status lived in the residential district while a royal area held houses assigned to the nobility. During its period of occupation, Machu Picchu had sixteen fountains fed by natural springs connected to stone channels. Long, narrow buildings called kanchas were positioned in parallel with terrace retaining walls. The site’s buildings and other structures were crafted from wood, stone, and bronze. Inca architecture emphasized harmony with the natural terrain. A construction technique known as ashlar involved the precise cutting of stone blocks that fit together without mortar. Another architectural feature were trapezoidal doors and windows. The temple area is the main tourist destination. The site has three principal buildings: the Temple of the Sun, Temple of the Three Windows, and Intihuatana. Some temples are uniquely aligned in recognition of astronomical events. The Temple of Three Windows provided open space for ceremonies and other gatherings. Although primarily known as an archaeological site, Machu Picchu has a considerable diversity of plant and animal species and is among the world’s best places to view orchids. Other vegetation includes white oak, laurel, and alder. Wildlife found in the region ranges from spectacled bear to Andean fox, llama, puma, and condor.
Machu Picchu’s more adventurous visitors have the option of taking a footpath up to a place near Huayna Picchu’s dome-topped peak. Upper sections of the trail are narrow and run along the edge of a dangerous drop-off. Because of these limitations, only 400 persons are permitted on the trail each day.
