Paraguay. Colonial Asunción and Latin America’s Bloodiest War
The small country of Paraguay was almost wiped out during the brutal Paraguayan War (1864–70). Fighting the Triple Alliance – Argentia, Brazil, and Uruguay, tiny Paraguay lost two-thirds of its population and much of its territory. While on a cross-country driving journey through South America, a colleague and I decided to make a stop in Asunción, Paraguay’s capital and largest city (population 462,000). Located on the eastern bank of the Paraguay River, Asunción is among the oldest cities in South America.
The site where Asunción is located was first visited by Spanish conquistadores during the 16th century. Among them was Juan de Ayolas who was traveling up the Paraguay River in search of a route to reach the mines of northern Peru. Tracing de Ayolas’ route, an expedition led by Juan de Salazar Espinosa and Gonzalo de Mendoza established a fort they called Nuestra Señora Santa Maria de la Asunción. In 1542, Asunción became a refuge for Spaniards after natives attacked and destroyed much of Buenos Aires in present-day Argentina. From Asunción, the Spanish founded other South American cities during the 16th century including Córdoba (in present-day Argentina) and Villarica (in present-day Chile). Later the city emerged as a focal point for a large Spanish province that included portions of Brazil, northern Argentina, and Paraguay. Paraguay achieved its independence in 1811. The Paraguayan War began as a border dispute among former European colonies. The first action was a Paraguayan attack on Brazilian forces. Later, a Paraguayan naval squadron set sail down the Paraná River, attacking two Argentinian ships in the Port of Corrientes. Although Paraguay began the war with a large army, it was eventually overwhelmed by the combined forces of Brazil, Argentina, and Uruguay. In January 1869, Asunción fell to Brazilian forces. An outcome of the war was that Paraguay was forced to cede disputed lands to Argentina and Brazil. Occupied by forces led by Brazilian General João de Souza da Fonseca Costa, some historic buildings in Asunción were looted and damaged. Paraguay fought another conflict with Brazil between 1932 and 1935 called the Chaco War. More recent confrontations include a tank attack on Asunción in 2000 that was part of a failed coup. In March 2017, protestors set fire to the Congress Building in response to a proposed constitutional amendment that would have permitted the president to run for reelection.
Today, the city’s larger metro area, called Gran Asunción, has a population of more than two million. In its capacity as the nation’s capital, Asunción is home to the country’s three governing bodies: the Legislature, Executive Branch, and Judiciary. About 90% of Asunción’s population is Catholic and most speak either Spanish (56%), Guaraní (11%) or Jopara, a unique language blending Spanish and Guaraní. Many of Asunción’s streets feature Guaraní words. Asunción is the third oldest capital city in South America following Lima, Peru and Quito, Ecuador.
Starting at our hotel near the Paraguay River, we walked to Plaza de la Democracia, the city’s principal square and a focal point for political unrest including demonstrations. The city’s historic quarter, called Old Town, has dozens of colonial era (1537-1811) buildings including many built with Baroque and Neo-Gothic architectural styles. In part because they lacked mineral resources, many of these structures were built using wood. Several are empty and in poor condition.
Located a short walk from our hotel was Panteón Nacional de los Héroes (National Patheon of Heros), a chapel dedicated to the Virgin Mary of the Assumption, Patroness of Asunción. The Greek-style structure was designed by Italian architect Alejandro Ravizza. In part because of the war with the Triple Alliance, the building remained unfinished for seventy years. Inside are the remains of persons of significance within Paraguayan history including presidents, military commanders, and unknown soldiers. Just two blocks north is the Metropolitan Cathedral of Our Lady of the Assumption. Continuing west on Avenue Republica we passed Cámara de Disputados – Placio Legislativo (the National Congress) and Cámara de Senadores (the Senate Building). The buildings were designed to blend colonial and indigenous Guaraní themes. Nearby was Palaci de los López, a neoclassical building that serves as the president’s official residence and the seat of government.
After departing Paraguay, we drove southward into Argentia as we followed the eastern bank of the Paraná River. Extending a distance of more than 4,800 kilometers, the Paraná River (aka Rio Paraná) drains an area that includes all of Paraguay and parts of northern Argentina, southeastern Bolivia, and southern Brazil. The Paraná eventually merges with the Río Uruguay and the Río de la Plata before emptying into the Atlantic Ocean near Buenos Aires. Within South America it is second in length to the Amazon. Venetian explorer Sebastian Cabot was the first European to travel up the Paraná in 1526. Today, the river is an important fishing resource for harvesting sábalo, surubi, and piranha (aka piraña). We stopped for a night in Goya, Argentina. Goya is located in the country’s northeast and along the Paraná River’s eastern shore. Named for its founder, Doña Goya, the city hosts the annual Festival of the Surubi (a popular type of catfish). Opening a general store there in the 1780s, Goya’s canned goods were purchased by visitors and merchants traveling on the river. By 1801, the site was known as “Goya Point.” The city’s church, known as Our Lady of the Rosary, was consecrated in 1884. The town has a connection with San Juan Capistrano in Southern California. Twice each year a group of golondrinas (swallows) completes an 11,000-kilometer flight between the cities. On their arrival in Goya the swallows are celebrated at the Monument of Swallows located in San Martin Square. Departing in late February, the swallows fly northwest to San Jaun Capistrano where they have been celebrated since the 1930s. We walked along a pathway that paralleled the river. A woman was tending several fishing poles, each capped with a tin can that served as notification of something taking the bait. We stopped briefly as the can on one pole began to make noise. In just a few second the woman pulled in the line, bringing an angry piranha onto the riverbank. The piranha is a freshwater fish and predator that feeds on other fish as well as plant material. They are 12 to 35 centimeters long and have a have a single row of sharp serrated teeth in their upper and lower jaws and a strong bite. Considered a “nuisance fish” because they steal catches, vendors sell piranha at local markets. Although depicted as dangerous, piranha attacks on humans are rare. We celebrated on our return to Buenos Aires with a prime rib dinner.
