Jordan. A Walking Tour of Ancient Jerash and Roman Philadelphia
In 2004 and 2005 I traveled to Jordan on a United States Agency for International Development (USAID) project aimed at rebuilding Iraq after the second Gulf War. Since part of my work was in Amman, Jordan, I had an opportunity to visit two of the country’s most spectacular Roman sites, Jerash (aka Gerasa) and Philadelphia.
Jerash is located 48 kilometers north of Amman, Jordan’s capital city. Archaeologists estimate that the region around Jerash was first occupied by humans around 7500 BC. However, it was not until the 2nd century BC that the city was founded by King Aniochus IV Epiphanes, ruler of the Hellenistic Syrian Kingdom. Located along an important route known as the King’s Highway, the city’s Hellenistic architecture was influenced by trading connections with Greece. For a brief time during the 1st century BC the city fell under Jewish control. However, in 63 BC, Jerash and much of the Levant (modern Israel, Syria, Jordan, and Lebanon), was conquered by a Roman army led by General Gnaeus Pompeius Magnus (aka Pompey). Although part of the Roman Empire, the city was given a measure of autonomy as one of ten semi-autonomous cities in the Decapolis League. Jerash’s fertile soil and trade connections with Petra helped it flourish and by the 3rd century AD, its population had grown to 20,000. The decline of Jerash began in the mid-8th century when the Galilee Earthquake destroyed parts of the city. During the 12th century, crusader armies used the ancient city to garrison soldiers. Today, Jerash has a population of about 60,000. Sometime referred to as “Pompeii of the Middle East,” archaeologists believe it is among the best-preserved Greco-Roman cities outside Europe.
Arriving by car, we passed rolling hills covered by olive trees, wheat fields, and conifers. After paying the entrance fee, we negotiated a path through souvenir shops before entering the city’s ruins. There were relatively few interpretive signs so in hindsight, we should have hired a local guide. Surrounded by Corinthian columns, the city’s most imposing building is the Temple of Artemis (Greek goddess of chastity and childbirth). Nearby is Hadrian’s Arch that honors Roman Emperor Hadrian. Built Pentelic marble in 129, it has two Latin inscriptions that say: “Athens, city of Theseus” and “Athens, city of Hadrian and not Theseus.”
Another imposing structure is the Oval Plaza which was connected to the Roman Cardo (a long street featuring columns) and measures 90 meters by 80 meters. Nearby, the Temple of Zeus honors the God of Lightening. The temple’s lower terrace was built in 27 AD and its upper terrace added in 160 AD. We also visited the 15,000-seat hippodrome. Built in 300, the hippodrome is 265 meters long and 52 meters wide and was used for chariot races and gladiatorial competitions. Before departing we stopped at the forum, which served as the city’s administrative center.
Roman Philadelphia served as capital of the Ammonite Kingdom from 1200 until 733 BC when it was conquered by the Assyrians. Beginning in 539 BC it was controlled by Achaemenian Persians. During the 3rd century BC it fell under Ptolemaic rule and under King Ptolemy II Philadelphus, the city was given the named “Philadelphia.” Conquered by the Seleucids in 218 BC, the city was later incorporated into the Kingdom of Nabataea. In 106 AD Nabataea was absorbed into the Roman Empire. As a Roman city, Philadelphia benefitted its position along a trade route that extended from Ailah (present-day Aqaba, Jordan) to Damascus, Syria. During the 7th century the city was conquered by the Rashidun Caliphate and renamed Amman.
Our walking tour of Philadelphia began at the well-preserved Roman theater, located in the southern part of present day Amman. The theater was built in the 2nd century to honor Emperor Titus Aelius Antoninus Pius (emperor from 138 to 161). Constructed on a hillside facing north so that spectators wouldn’t have to look into the sun, the theater had seating for 6,000 in three diazomata (horizontal sections). Today, it remains in use for concerts and other events. On the south side of the modern Hashemite Plaza is a smaller (500 seat) theater called the Odeon. Nearby is the Nymphaeum, a partially preserved public fountain. Roman Philadelphia’s most impressive structures are the Amman Citadel and Temple of Hercules, constructed under the direction of Geminius Marcianos, who served as governor of the Roman Province of Arabia from 162 to 166. The temple covered an area of 30 by 24 meters and was surrounded by six columns.
