Slovenia. A Golden Fleece and a Pagan Temple: Stories of Ljubljana and Lake Bled
I knew almost nothing about Slovenia when two friends and I decided to add a stop there while on a longer trip in the Balkans. Ljubljana is the capital and largest city in Slovenia. Geographically speaking, the city extends across an alluvial plain located on an ancient trade route connecting the Danube River and the Adriatic Sea. A legend notes that Ljubljana was established by an ancient Greek named Jason who was the leader of a group called the Argonauts. Fleeing across the Black Sea with a golden fleece stolen from King Aetes, the Argonauts traveled up the Danube, Sava, and Ljubljana rivers. Pausing near the source of the Ljubljana River, they fought a monster known as the Ljubljana Dragon. Today the dragon appears atop a castle on the city’s flag and coat of arms.
Archaeologists believe that the city’s first settlers arrived in about 1200 BC. By 50 BC, the Romans constructed a military stronghold there that grew into the provincial city of Emona. Hun invaders destroyed much of the city in 452 AD, by order of their commander, Atilla the Hun. Ljubljana was first mentioned within written records in 1144. In the later 1270s, the city was conquered by the King of Bohemia and incorporated into the Hapsburg Empire. Earthquakes damaged Ljubljana in 1511 and 1895. In 1918, the city became part of the Kingdom of Serbs, Croats, and Slovenes. After being occupied by Fascist Italy and Nazi German during WWII, Slovenia was incorporated into Yugoslavia. When that country broke up in 1991, Slovenia achieved its independence.
We took a pathway to the top of Castle Hill for views of the city. Ljubljana Castle is located on the site of the original Roman fortification. The castle was constructed in the 11th century and in the 15th century, its wooden and stone structures were rebuilt with reinforced walls and a fortified entrance accessible from a drawbridge. Most of the castle’s current buildings date to the 16th and 17th centuries. Since it was never used as the home of a ruler, the castle lost its importance, and in subsequent years it was used as a barracks, hospital, and prison. Between 1903 and 1963, the castle housed homeless people. Finally, in the early 1960s, Ljubljana Castle was renovated so it could be used for cultural events.
Our walking route through the city took us past Ljubljana Cathedral (aka Saint Nicholas's Cathedral), located on Cyril and Methodius Square near the city’s central market and town hall. Originally a Gothic church, the structure was rebuilt using a Baroque design after a fire damaged it in the early 1700s. Facing east, the cathedral has a green dome and twin turrets featuring six bells. The Ljubljana River crosses through marshland before meandering through the city. Along the river’s banks are inviting cafés with outdoor seating areas. Architect Jož Plečnik designed the riverbank to have attractive tree-line paths.
With extra time on our hands, we made the 55-kilometer drive to Lake Bled, located in the Upper Carniolan Region of northwest Slovenia. Formed by glacial and tectonic action, the lake’s shoreline is surrounded by scattered homes and villas. There would be more private homes if not for government restrictions on development. From a distance we could see traditional boats called pletna that resemble Italian gondolas. Near the lake’s center is Bled Island with buildings that date to the late 1800s, including a church dedicated to the Assumption of Mary. The church was built atop an 8th century pagan-Slavic temple honoring Ziva, Slavic goddess of love. The island is popular for weddings. By local tradition, the groom carries his bride up 99 steps from a boat dock to the chapel. The lake is up to 30 meters deep in some places, and filled with trout and sheatfish. Thermal springs on the east side maintain water temperatures above 20°C, even during winter months.
Bled Castle is a medieval fortress built on a high ridge above the lake. The castle was constructed in 1004 as a gift from Emperor Henry II to the bishops of Brixen. The oldest section of the building is a Romanesque tower. Like other fortress-homes of the period, Bled Castle was equipped with a fortified main building that provided housing for its primary residents and a thick protective wall with interior rooms used by servants. The castle is surrounded by a moat that could be crossed using a drawbridge. Today, the castle houses a museum in its inner courtyard. From the castle walls we looked down towards emerald-green waters of Lake Bled. A Slovenian poet once wrote, “No Carniola has a prettier scene, than this, resembling paradise serene.” Near the edge of the lake, we could see the villages of Gorje and Zasip and in the distance, limestone peaks of the Julian Alps (aka Julijske Alpe) that stretch from northeastern Italy into Slovenia. After viewing the lake, we spent the night in the Slovenian town of Novo Mesto (population 24,000). Novo Mesto was founded in 1365 by Hapsburg Archduke Rudolf IV of Austria. The town grew rapidly after 1958 following the construction of a major highway from Ljubljana to Zagreb.
