Ireland. Kells, Castles, and Cliffs: A Road Trip Across the Emerald Island
During a university break, my wife and I drove across of Ireland, from Dublin to the island’s west coast. It was one of the most enjoyable international trips I have ever taken, in part because it was purely a vacation. Known as the “Emerald Island,” Ireland (aka Éire) is the second largest land mass within the British Isles. Politically, it is made up of two entities, the Republic of Ireland and Northern Ireland, part of the United Kingdom. The island’s total population is about seven million. With lush vegetation and a mild climate, its landscape is dominated by low mountains surrounding a central plain.
The earliest evidence of human occupation on the island dates back 33,000 years to Neolithic settlers who grew cereal crops and raised cattle and sheep. Stone walls were constructed to mark fields and pastures. Celts came to the island from mainland Europe during the first century AD. Archaeological evidence suggests that the Romans traveled there and traded with local tribes but did not establish permanent settlements. For hundreds of years the island was a patchwork of small kingdoms nominally subject to a high king. Islanders adopted Christianity during the fifth century and in the eighth century the island was invaded by Vikings hordes that plundered monasteries and towns. Claimed by England during the twelfth century Anglo-Norman Invasion, the island was ruled as the Kingdom of Ireland after 1542 but remained subservient to English rule. In 1801, the island was formally added to the United Kingdom. Following a twentieth century war of independence, Ireland was partitioned into the Irish Free State and Northern Ireland. Today, the Irish celebrate their heritage through music, dance, literature, and the Gaelic language. Measured in per capita income, Ireland is among the world’s wealthiest nations.
My wife and I arrived in Dublin on a flight from New York. We spent our first night in the picturesque coastal town of Howth. Located on the northern part of Dublin Bay, Howth is a center for fishing and a popular recreational sailing harbor. After a breakfast of eggs, toast, fruit, and black pudding, we drove to Dublin for a visit to Trinity University. Founded in 1592, Trinity was modeled after England’s Cambridge and Oxford universities. Well-known alums include writer Oscar Wilde and Nobel Peace Prize winner Mairead Maguire. Constructed in 1712, Trinity’s Old Library is one of six library buildings on the main campus. In accordance with a law passed in 2000, Trinity’s library is responsible for maintaining a copy of all books and documents published in the country. Along with important documents such as the 1916 Proclamation of the Irish Republic, the library houses Brian Boru's harp, a Medieval musical instrument featured on the country’s coat of arms and used as the symbol of Guiness Beer. We stopped for a look at the famous Book of Kells which is displayed under a glass cover. Written in Latin during the ninth century, the ornately decorated book contains the four gospels of the New Testament. Our exploration of the Old Library continued as we navigated the sixty-five meter-long “Long Room.” Inside are 200,000 books stacked on wooden shelves from floor to ceiling. The bookcases are interrupted in a few places by alcoves featuring marble busts of philosophers and others associated with the university.
The next day we drove west to Galway before continuing south, following Ireland’s west coast. Along the way we stopped at Shanmuckinish (aka Ballynacragga) Castle, a ruined tower house in Dumcreehy Parish, County Claire that was constructed in the fifteenth century. The castle once featured a reception hall on its first floor that had a large fireplace. Today, only half of the castle’s seventeen-meter tower is still standing. Continuing south we passed through a rocky area called “The Burren.” Covering 530 km2, the region’s name comes from “boirinn” meaning “rocky district.” The Burren was formed 350 million years ago when sedimentary rock formed on the floor of an ancient tropical sea. Subsequently, the region was covered by darker mud and sandstone. About 1.8 million years ago a massive icesheet from the northeast stripped away soil and tore into limestone rock. Since that time slow erosion has deepened and widened vertical joints in the rock. Today, The Burren is among the world’s best examples of a karst-glacial landscape.
Located south of Galway on Ireland’s west coast, the Cliffs of Moher is a fourteen-kilometer-long coastal bluff rising 120 meters above the Atlantic Ocean. North of Brian’s tower, the cliffs are even taller, extending to 214 meters above sea level. The area is named for Fort Moher, a military post once located at Hag’s Head southwest of the cliffs. The cliffs themselves are comprised of shale and sandstone rock formed 313 to 326 million years ago. Wave action near the base of the cliffs continues to push the bluff above slowly inland. Several movies have been filmed at the cliffs including Princess Bride (1987) and Harry Potter and the Half-Blood Prince (2009).
We continued south to the Dingle Peninsula. Located on Ireland’s southwest coast and named after the town of Dingle, the peninsula is part of a sandstone region that includes the Slieve Mish Mountains. With rocky cliffs and sandy beaches, the peninsula highlights Ireland’s natural beaty. Following Highway N70, we took a loop road that encircles the Iveragh Peninsula. This 179 kilometer route is better known as the Ring of Kerry. Crossed rolling green hills, we were treated to views of waterfalls, beaches, and quaint towns such as Beafort, Killorglin, Waterville, Sneem, and Kenmare. Parking our car near Cahersiveen, we took a short walk to ivy covered ruins of Ballycarbery Castle, located in an area called “Over the Waters.” Constructed in the late sixteenth century, the castle was damaged in 1652 by cannon fire from Parliament forces during the War of Three Kingdoms (aka British Civil War). Less than half of the wall once surrounding Ballycarbery has survived, making it possible to see interior staircases leading to the first floor. Since our visit, the landowner has begun restricting access. Although visitors can no longer approach the structure, it is still possible to view the castle from a parking area. We continued our journey, stopped along the Kerry Cliffs for a view of distant Sceilg Mhichíl (aka Skelling Michael), a rocky island with a well-preserved medieval monastery that was featured in the movie, Star Wars: The Last Jedi (2017).
