United Kingdom. Six Days in Southern England
A few years ago, I planned a solo trip to southern England that would include visits to Stonehenge, Bath, and Oxford. Before heading west, I decided to also see Leeds Castle and the seaside city of Brighton. Flying into London’s Heathrow Airport early one morning, I picked up my rental car and was off to Leeds. Traveling east on the M25, it took about an hour to reach the castle’s “car park.” Known as “The Loveliest Castle in England,” Leeds was constructed on an island formed by the River Len. The oldest structure on the site was built by a Saxon chief known as Leed. In 1119, Robert de Crevecoeur (aka Robert the Broken Hearted) built a stone castle on the site that was used by King Edward I during the 13th century and later by Catherine of Aragon, first wife of King Henry VIII. Leeds escaped destruction during the English Civil War because its owner was sympathetic to Parliamentarian forces. Used during WWII as a hospital, the castle and surrounding property was later transferred to a charitable organization called the Leeds Castle Foundation. The castle’s grounds are extensive and include a hedge maze, grotto, and formal gardens. I crossed a moat, and through the castle’s principal gate. Inside the main building is the 22-meter-long King Henry VIII Banquet Room. Other impressive rooms included Maiden’s Tower, the Queen’s Room, and the Queen’s Gallery.
After lunch I pressed on towards my hotel in Brighton (population 276,000), a seaside resort city in East Sussex that is about 25 kilometers south of London. As a general rule I only book hotels or other types of lodging that have parking available. My hotel in Brighton (the Royal Albion) was across the street from the beach so I decided to gamble on finding a nearby car park. After several laps around the city, I realized that this was a mistake. By chance, I stumbled on a parking garage five blocks from the Royal Albion. Brighton was a Roman settlement and then an Anglo-Saxon town. Among frequent visitors was King George IV (1762-1830). First visiting the city at age 21, the future king enjoyed the city’s food, theatre, and nightlife. Later, he established a residence there called Brighton Pavilion. After settling into my room, I crossed the street to explore Brighton Marine Palace and Pier (aka Palace Pier) with its restaurants and game arcades. Perpendicular to the pier is an 8.7-kilometer-long shingle (cobblestone) beach. After walking along the beach, I crossed back over Maderia Drive towards Old Steine and Grand Paradise Streets and in the direction of Victoria Gardens. Along the way were the massive turrets of King George’s Brighton Pavilion. Returning to the Royal Albion, I found dinner at a restaurant called Harry Ramsden that advertised “World Famous Fish and Chips.”
Departing Brighton, I drove east on the A27/M27 towards Southampton. It took about two hours to reach Stonehenge. Located three kilometers west of Amesbury, Stonehenge is a monument of massive stone blocks believed to have been built in several phases between 3100 BC and 1600 BC. It’s arguably the world’s most famous prehistoric site. According to folklore, the stone circle was created by Merlin, wizard in King Arthur’s Court, who used magic to transport the stones from Ireland. After purchasing a ticket, I browsed displays in the visitor center. Although there is a bus to the monument, I elected to walk the four kilometer trail that passed through privately owned pastures. Positioned within a larger region of Neolithic and Bronze Age sites, massive rocks of Stonehenge were arranged to observe sunrise on the summer solstice. The monument takes the form of two concentric rings. An outer loop is formed by stones measuring four meters high and about two meters wide with some connected at the top by horizontal stones. Each gigantic stone is estimated to weigh 25,000 kilograms. An inner ring is made of smaller blue stones. Along with serving as an observatory and gathering place for ceremonies, the monument is believed to have been a burial site. The site has been a tourist attraction for centuries and was first excavated during the 17th century. The stone circle is roped-off, so I walked around the perimeter for photographs. I returned to the visitor center by bus and grabbed a quick lunch at the cafeteria before resuming my drive towards Bath.
Located in Avon Valley, Bath (population 101,000) is named for pools (aka baths) built by the Romans in 60 AD. Taking advantage of water bubbling upward from geothermal springs, the Romans constructed a thermae (an imperial bathing complex) dedicated to the Solis, goddess of sun, energy, and warmth. A temple was also built on the site sometime during the 1st century. With a decline in Roman authority in the 5th century, the complex fell into disrepair. Founded as a religious center, Bath Abbey was constructed in the 7th century. Today, visitors can tour the Roman Temple, Sacred Spring, and the Roman Bath House. I purchased a ticket to enter a museum that displays artifacts from Roman occupation and provides access to the Bathhouse. The Bathhouse has several separate pools including the caldarium (hot pool), tepidarium (lukewarm pool), and frigidarium (cold pool). In an outside courtyard surrounded by buildings is the Sacred Spring. That evening, I wandered the streets of Bath, passing “The Circus,” a ring of historic townhouses.
I had an early start the next morning. Following an English breakfast served by the Airbnb owner, I drove north on A46 and west on M4 across the Severn River. Entering Wales, I continued north on M48 into the Wye Valley. Tintern Abbey was founded in 1131 in Monmouthshire, Wales to serve the Cistercians, a breakaway of the Benedictine Monastic Order. The largest building on the abbey site is Great Church, built between 1269 and 1301. With pointed arches and rib vaults, the church was designed in English Gothic style. In 1536, the Abbey was surrendered to representatives of the Crown following King Henry VIII’s dissolution of monasteries and soon after, the church and other buildings fell into disrepair. Since the 18th century, the roofless church has been the subject of sketches and paintings by well-known artists including Joseph M. W. Turner and Edward Dayes. I paid the modest fee to tour the small museum and see the abbey’s foundations and picturesque ivy-covered walls.
My next destination was Stratford-upon-Avon. Located 146 kilometers northwest of London, Stratford (population 30,000) is the birthplace of playwright William Shakespeare (1564-1616). More than 2.5 million tourists visit the city each year. Prior to the arrival of Ango-Saxons in the late 12th century, Stratford was a Roman village. Later, it was an important regional market town. I checked into my Airbnb and walked to Sheep Street in search of lunch. Along the way I browsed the city’s historic “Spine” of 15th century buildings such as Guildhall, used by the Guild of the Holy Cross, a group of religious merchants. On nearby Henley Street is a 2.5-meter-high bronze statue of Shakespeare created by artist John Butler in 2016 to commemorate the 400th anniversary of the playwright’s death. Much of Stratford is located on the west side of the River Avon. On the northwest side of the river are Bancroft Gardens and the Bancroft Canal with its floating bar/restaurant. I crossed Clopton Bridge and stopped at a beer garden near the boathouse. Returning to the west side of the river, I followed a walkway southwest past the Royal Shakespeare Theatre to “Old Town” and Holy Trinity Church where Shakespeare is buried. Regrettably, the church was closed on the day of my visit.
My final stop was Oxford (population 162,000). Located about 90 kilometers northwest of London, Oxford is home to the world’s oldest English-speaking university. Established in the 11th century, the University of Oxford has 39 semi-autonomous colleges that support a wide range of academic departments. The university is known for Nobel Laureates and alums that include distinguished scientists, artists, diplomats, and politicians. It is also home to the prestigious Rhodes Scholarship. I sensed that parking would be a challenge, so I left my rental car in a car park and rode a bus into town. In lieu of being arranged within a single discrete area, Oxford University’s buildings are spread out across the city. My walking tour took me down Commonwealth Street and past Christ Church and the Carfax Tower. Continuing on St. Giles Steet, I took in views of St. Johns College. Later, I followed Cattle Street to see the famous Bodlein Library. My tour concluded as I followed High Street to Covered Market. Returning to my car, I spent my last night in a town called Gerrards Cross before flying back to the U.S.