Albania, Montenegro, Croatia. Walled Cities of the Eastern Adriatic
I began planning my Eastern Adriatic trip without knowing much about what I’d see. To some extent, my impressions of Albania, Montenegro, and Croatia were shaped by what I knew about the region’s post-WWII association with the Soviet Union, the breakup of Yugoslavia, and Bosnia’s bitter war during the 1990s. We boarded a night ferry from Bari on Italy’s east coast bound for Durrës, Albania. Durrës (aka Dyrrachium) was founded by Greek colonists in the 2nd century BC and was later incorporated into the Roman, Byzantine, and Ottoman Empires. In 1913, Albania received its independence through the Treaty of Bucharest.
Boarding a bus, we continued on to Tirana (population 912,000), Albania’s capital city. Founded by the Ottomans in 1614, Tirana has been continuously inhabited since the Iron Age. When communism fell in 1992, statues of communist leaders displayed in public squares and other prominent places were moved to a small courtyard behind the National Art Gallery. The collection includes Vladimir Lenin, Joseph Stalin, and former Albanian dictator Enver Hoxha.
Another stop was Krujë Castle, located 25 kilometers north of the city. Built in the 5th century above Tirana, the castle is among the most visited places in Albania. During the Albania Revolt (1432-1436), the castle was unsuccessfully besieged by Ottoman Turks. It finally fell to Turkish military forces in 1468. Today, the castle houses a museum dedicated to Gjergj Kastrioti, the “Dragon of Albania,” who repelled successive attacks by the Turks.
Crossing the border into Montenegro, we stopped at the seaside town of Budva (population 20,000). First colonized by the Greeks in the 5th century BC, Budva is known for sandy beaches and the Medieval walled city of Kotor. Over its history the city was controlled by the Venetians, Ottomans, the Hapsburg Monarchy, France, the Austrian Empire, and Italy. In 1944, the Socialist Republic of Montenegro became part of the nation of Yugoslavia. The country was briefly joined with Serbia beginning in 1992. In 2006, Montenegro declared its independence, making it among the youngest countries in the world. Adjacent to Budva is the walled city of Kotor, a World Heritage Site since 1979. Kotor is positioned on a triangular section of land bounded by the Bay of Kotor to the southwest, Mt. St. John to the east, and the Skurda River to the north. Surrounding the city is a 4.5-kilometer-long wall supported by towers, bastions, and a castle fortress. The upper rampart has three entryways into the city: the River, Gurdic, and Sea Gates. Inside, we visited St. Tryphon’s Cathedral. Consecrated in 1166, the cathedral was expanded with the addition of two Baroque towers in 1667. We ascended 1350 steps to the fortress on St. John Mountain, pausing for a brief look at the Church of Our Lady of Remedy. Reaching the top, we explored the Fortress of Sveti Ivan (St. John), constructed by the Illyrians and rebuilt by the Byzantines in the 6th century.
Our final stop was Dubrovnik, located in southern Croatia. The Playwright George Bernard Shaw once remarked, “Those who seek paradise on Earth should come to Dubrovnik.” Dubbed “Pearl of the Adriatic,” Dubrovnik was first settled during the Middle Ages. The first wall was built in the late 13th century when the city was controlled by the Venetians. Four meters in height, the city’s present 1,940-meter-long wall was completed during the 17th century. Additional protection was offered by three circular and 14 quadrangular towers, a moat, and 120 cannons. Access into the city was controlled by four gates.
One of Dubrovnik’s largest buildings is Rector’s Palace, built for the city’s governor and now a cultural history museum. Game of Thrones fans may recognize it as the location of the Spice King’s atrium. Behind Dubrovnik’s Cathedral is Gundulić Square where fruits and vegetables are sold every day. Outside the city’s western wall and defended by 10 large cannons is St. Lovrijenac (Lawrence) Fortress. Dubrovnik was besieged by the Arabs in the 9th century, the Venetians in the 10th century, Bosnian forces in the 15th century, and the Russians early in the 19th century. Before departing, my companion and I took the City Wall Tour for views of the city’s network of red topped buildings. The highest point along the wall is Minĉeta Tower. It took about an hour and a half to complete the perimeter walk along the wall.
