Vietnam. Traveling by Sampan on the Mekong Delta
From headwaters in the Himalaya Mountains, the Mekong River flows through China, Myanmar, Thailand, Laos, Cambodia, and Vietnam before reaching its delta (end) just southwest of Ho Chi Minh City. It is the 3rd longest river in Asia and the 12th longest in the world. Near Cambodia’s capital of Phnom Penh, the Bassac River breaks away from the Mekong’s channel, becoming the first of many distributaries associated with the massive Mekong River Delta (aka the Nine Dragons River Delta). Covering more than 40,000 km2, the delta is the country’s most productive agricultural region, earning it the nickname, “Vietnam’s Rice Bowl.” The area is also known for offshore fishing and aquaculture. With 20,000 plant species, 800 species of amphibians and reptiles, and more than 400 mammal species, the Mekong is rich in biodiversity.
Our cab ride from Ho Chi Minh City to the Cai Be District took about two hours along a road bustling with bicycles and motorcycles. In Vietnam, motorcycles routinely challenge laws of physics. It’s not uncommon to see bathtubs, mid-sized refrigerators, or even fully grown pigs strapped behind a driver (for other amusing examples, see Hans Kemp’s book, Bikes of Burden). Located near the boundary of the Vinh Long, Ben Tre, and Tien Giang Provinces, the city of Cai Be is the economic and administrative center of southern Vietnam. After arriving in Cai Be, we boarded a sampan (small boat) for our delta adventure.
Among Cai Be’s most popular attractions is its floating market, believed to have been operating since the 18th century. From narrow boats packed closely together, vendors sell fruit (i.e., mango, jackfruit, and rambutan), vegetables, and fish. It’s also possible to purchase prepared foods such as bánh canh (a thick noodle soup) and bánh xeo (a Vietnamese pancake).
We also toured small shops to learn about the preparation of rice paper and coconut candy. Coconut candy has been produced in the region since the 1930s. It is made by mixing malt sugar with coconut milk heated for at least 40 minutes and stirred with a wooden paddle. While still hot, the candy maker may add cacao, durian (a tropical fruit that has a spiky, hard outer shell), or peanuts. When hot and soft, the gooey mixture is poured into non-stick molds. After cooling, the pieces are cut and individually wrapped in paper.
After navigating Cai Be’s canals, we stopped for lunch at a riverside restaurant where we enjoyed locally caught fish and gỏi cuốn (spring rolls) that we dipped in peanut sauce. Adjacent to the market is a Cai Be Catholic Church, built in 1932. Constructed using the Roman architectural style, the church’s tall steeple is visible for a considerable distance.