Korea. A 14th Century Palace in the Hermit Kingdom
With glistening skyscrapers, sidewalks bustling with shoppers, and a high-speed subway system, it’s difficult to imagine Seoul at the time isolated Korea was known as the Hermit Kingdom. With more than 25 million people living in its larger metropolitan region, Seoul is the ninth largest urban area in the world. It also has a high population density with more than 16,000 people per square kilometer. For nearly a decade I traveled to Seoul every other year to teach a course at the Korean National Fire Service Academy. On one trip I decided to explore the oldest part of city on foot.
The northwest part of South Korea has been occupied by humans for more than 10,000 years. About two thousand years ago a city called Wiryeseong was established on the banks of the Hangang River and within the boundaries of modern Seoul. Wiryeseong served as capital of Baekje, one of three ancient Korean kingdoms. In 1104, King Sukjong of the Goryeo Dynasty (918–1392) constructed a palace he called Namgyeong (meaning “southern capital”). Protected by a wall, the new city served as capital of the Josen Dynasty (1392-1910) under King Yi Seong-gye. Called Hanyang, the city had two sections, an area inside the fortress wall (or Seong-jung) and land outside the wall. In 1392, construction began on Gyeongbokgung, the largest of five palaces built during the Josen Dynasty. An outer court called the Oejeon had offices for state officials and the king while the inner court or Naejeon contained gardens and living quarters for the royal family. Directly behind Gyeongbokgung Palace is a mountain called Bugaksan. In 1592, the Japanese burned Gyeongbokgung and for the next 273 years the palace sat unoccupied and derelict. The palace’s 7,700 rooms within 500 separate buildings were reconstructed in the mid-19th century.
Beginning in the 19th century, Korea went through a period of modernization. At about same time Hanyang was opened to outsiders. Among innovations, Hanyang was the first city in East Asia to introduce electricity in its royal palace. When Japan annexed Korea in 1910, Hanyang was renamed Keijō. The city was liberated by U.S. military forces at the end of WWII. After the war the South Korean capital became known as Seoul, a noun that means “capital city.” During the Korean War (1950-1953) Seoul changed hands three times and from the rubble of war emerged as a modern city.
Before touring Gyeongbokgung Palace, I stopped to photograph a hexagon-shaped pagoda constructed on a small island. Located in Lake Hyangwonji, the island is accessible via a footbridge. Built in 1873, the two-story pagoda is called Hyangwobjeong, meaning “pavilion where fragrance spreads afar.” My route continued through a building housing Gyeongbokgung Palace’s First Annex Room and the Sajeongjen (king’s office). Rebuilt in 1945, the palace’s Heungnyemun Gate is a mid-rise wooden structure. Back outside I witnessed the changing of the guard ceremony. During the Josen Dynasty, royal guards were responsible for patrolling the palace and protecting its gates. Held at 10:00am and 2:00pm every day except Tuesdays, the ceremony was established in 1469 and has been reenacted since 1996 by performers dressed in traditional military uniforms. I also visited the palace’s Amisan Garden Chimney, located near Gyotejeon Hall which served as the Queen’s residence. The chimney was part of an Ondol or floor heating system used in Gyotejeon Hall. Each of several decorative chimneys was engraved with images of plants and animals.
Outside the palace I passed a few Buddhist monks. Buddhism came to Korea in 372 AD about 800 years after the death of the historic Buddha. The Korean variant differs from other forms of Buddhism through its holistic approach called Tongbulgyo (interpreted Buddhism) that focuses on the power of the mind. Today, about 25% of Koreans identify as Buddhists. Known as Seunim, Korean monks wear a saffron-dyed robe over a white robe.
Returning to downtown Seoul, I paused to view a statue of 16th century Korean war hero Yi Sun-Shin (1545-1598), located near Guanghwamun Plaza. Admiral Sun-Shin fought 23 battles and led the Koreans to victory over the Japanese. His “Turtle Ship” is believed to be the first ironclad battleship. Armored plates covering the upper deck protected the ship’s crew while sharpened spears attached to its sides discouraged boardings by hostile forces.
