Thailand. Bangkok’s Boats and Buddhas: Exploring Venice of the East
The capital and most populous city (9 million) in Thailand, Bangkok (aka Krung Maha Nakhon) began as a trading settlement during the Ayutthaya Kingdom and was later home to two capital cities, Thonburi, established in 1767, and Rattanakosin, founded in 1782. Initially known as Siam, the nation of Thailand transitioned from an absolute monarchy to a constitutional government in 1932. During World War II, the country was part of the Axis powers and a target for Allied bombing raids. Bangkok is located in the Chao Phraya River Delta. The Chao Phraya River flows through the city in a southern direction before it empties into the Gulf of Thailand 25 kilometers to the south. Some of the city’s land area is reclaimed swampland that has been drained for agriculture.
Bangkok may be best known as a city of more than 1,600 canals. The period of canal construction extended from the 1500 through the 1800s. The city’s network of khlong (canals) remained the primary means of transportation until roads were constructed in the late 19th century. The centerpiece is the Cho Phraya River (aka River of Kings). All former kings have traveled on the Cho Phraya in royal barge processions. Today, Bangkok is sometimes called “Venice of the East.” In recent years a few of its canals have been filled and paved over to create automobile routes.
Along with facilitating transportation, the canals support floating markets where it is possible to purchase som yum (papaya salad), vegetables, fruit, sticky rice, and “boat” noodles. Vendors also offer fresh scallops, squid, and fishcakes served with hot sauce. Elsewhere shoppers can purchase clothing or khanom alua, a jelly-like dessert. In part because of the city’s reliance on canals, Bangkok is a city of highway traffic jams. Whereas 32% of New York City’s land area is covered by roads, just 8% of Bangkok’s is devoted to highways and roads. Other problems include excessive groundwater removal that has led to ground subsidence and flooding that sometimes overwhelms the city’s drainage system.
I’ve been to Bangkok’s royal palace twice, once when I was 17 and a second time during my years as a college professor. On my second trip there I was invited to tour the canal system. Our small group traveled in a Khlong Saen Saep (canal boat) that looked like a long, narrow gondola powered by an outboard motor. Bangkok’s Grand Palace (aka Phra Borom Maha Ratcha Wang) is a building complex located on Rattanakosin Island. Constructed at the request of King Rama I (aka Phutthayotfa Chulalok), the palace’s original wood structures were replaced with masonry. Between 1782 and 1925, the palace served as the official residence to the King of Siam (later Thailand). Although government offices moved elsewhere when the absolute monarchy ended, a few royal events and celebrations continue to be held there.
Occupying a 218,000 square meter rectangle surrounded by walls, the grounds include buildings, lawn areas, gardens, and pavilions. Additional walls separate the palace’s four quarters: the Outer Court, Temple of the Emerald Buddha, Middle Court, and Inner Court. The Outer Court housed royal offices and ministries. Located in the northeastern section of the palace, the Temple of the Emerald Buddha served as a royal chapel (it was not considered a Buddhist temple because it lacked living quarters for monks). Two large pyramid-shaped towers or chedi are located on the east terrace leading into Prasat Phra Theop Biden. Standing 16 meters high, each has a marble octagonal foundation topped by a square-based stupa encased in gold leaf. At the base are yaksha (giants) that symbolically guard the structure. With his face painted purple, Atsakanmala is one of twelve yaksha. He wears heavy armor and holds a staff. The Middle Court was the site of royal apartments and throne halls used by the king. Finally, the Inner Court was reserved for females who were part of the king’s harem. During the period of absolute monarchy, the palace was used for both administrative and religious activities.
About 700 meters south of the palace grounds is an 80,000 square meter temple called Wat Pho that is famous for its reclining Buddha. Measuring 46 meters long and covered with gold leaf, the statue depicts the Buddha a supine position just before entering Nirvana. It is constructed from brick that was subsequently shaped with plaster and gilded. The Buddha’s right arm supports his head.
