Gabon. Searching for Mountain Gorilla in Gabon
East Africa is known for savanna landscapes and megafauna found in parks such as Tanzania’s Serengeti and Kenya’s Amboseli. In comparison, fewer tourists travel to rainforest parks within the continent’s west and central regions. Lope National Park is best known for its population of mountain gorillas. Located in central Gabon, Lope is bordered to the north by the Ogooué River and to the south by the Chaillu Massive. The region has been influenced by unique climate and geologic changes. Towards the end of the last ice age (12,000 years ago) the park was covered by savanna grasses that have been slowly replaced by montane forest. Today, only a small region in the northern portion of the park is still covered by grass. In recent years, archaeologists have found evidence of Stone Age hunter-gatherers within the park’s boundaries. Since the 14th century, the area has been occupied by the Okanda People and used as a hunting ground by Bongo pygmies. Today, Lope protects more than 5,300 km2 of unmatched biodiversity. Along with 1,500 plant species, the park’s habitat supports populations of African cane buffalo, giant pangolin, yellow duiker, chimpanzee, mandrill, and western lowland gorilla.
Our journey to Lope National Park began in Libreville, Gabon’s capital and largest city (population 720,000). Located on central Africa’s Atlantic coast and just north of the Equator, Libreville (meaning “free town”) was first settled by the Mpongwe people. Later, it became an American Christian mission and slave resettlement area. Less than 10% of Gabon’s 7,600 kilometers of roads are hard surfaced so we elected to travel to Lope by train. Nicknamed the Bongo Train because it was constructed under then-President Omar Bongo, the railway is the only major transportation artery connecting western and eastern Gabon. Our second-class seats were comfortable. However, we had to be mindful not to miss our stop because the train continued on to Franceville near Gabon’s border with the Congo. After about four hours we got off at Lope Station and were driven to the Lope Hotel.
After a meal we departed for Mikongo Camp, an abandoned research facility established by the Zoological Society of London (ZSL). The drive took us east along the Ogooué River and then south through rolling savanna that transitioned into forest. We decided that the park road wasn’t especially well-traveled when we came to an abrupt stop where a tree had fallen across our path.
The next two hours were spent driving to a nearby village to find someone who would loan us a chainsaw. Returning to the fallen tree, our driver began cutting sections that covered the road. In the interest of time, we departed with our guide and daypacks for a four-kilometer hike to Mikongo. We reasoned that the walk would give us an additional opportunity to spot lowland gorillas. Later that afternoon the 4x4 arrived with our suitcases, bottled water, and other provisions.
Mikongo has six bungalows arranged around an open-air kitchen/dining area. Although the bungalows had bathrooms equipped with sinks and toilets, there was no electricity or running water. After a brief rest we departed again to search for gorillas. Following trails previously used by researchers, we looked for broken twigs and half-eaten fruit – signs that gorillas may be nearby. The trail crossed streams and passed trees anchored by massive fin-like buttress roots. After several hours of walking (and no gorilla sightings) we returned to Mikongo for dinner. That evening we slept in tents pitched inside our bungalow (presumably for protection from insects).
While my companion and guide were still asleep the next morning, I prepared instant coffee on the dining hall’s wooden porch. Hearing the rustling of leaves, I turned to see a grayish mass emerge from the trees but before I could grab my camera, it disappeared back into the forest. Without a photo, would anyone believe I saw a gorilla? After breakfast we returned to the Lope Hotel for another night before boarding a night train back to Libreville.
