Zambia and Zimbabwe. Victoria Falls and the Cape-to-Cairo Railroad
Forming a massive cloud of spray visible for 40 kilometers, Victoria Falls is among the world’s awe-inspiring places. At peak flow, more than 500 million liters of water drops 78 meters each minute, creating a perpetual cloud of mist the locals call Mosi-on-Tunya, meaning “the smoke that thunders.” Scottish missionary and explorer David Livingstone became the first European to see this place in November 1855. Subsequently, he named the falls in honor of British Queen Victoria. Forty years later, mining magnate Cecil Rhodes proposed an audacious project to link Britain’s African possessions. His plan called for a rail line that would extend from Cape Town in South Africa northwest to Cairo, Egypt (Rhodes is remembered as a controversial figure in African history and namesake of the prestigious Rhodes Scholarship). Anticipating the place where his railroad would cross the Zambezi River near Victoria Falls, Rhodes told his chief engineer that he wanted train passengers to feel the waterfall’s mist as their coach crossed the bridge. Today, the Zambezi River forms the border between Zambia and Zimbabwe with Rhodes’ bridge remaining an important economic conduit between the two countries.
Our journey to the falls began with a seven-hour bus ride originating in Lusaka, Zambia’s capital city. Passing first through the town of Livingstone, we cleared customs before walking across the historic bridge. Positioned 128 meters above the river, the steel parabolic structure is a remarkable feat of engineering. For a few years in the early 20th century, it was the world’s tallest bridge. Near its center is a concession offering single or tandem bungy jumps above the crocodile infested Zambezi River.
After checking in on the Zimbabwean side, we followed a trail to several waterfall overlooks. Along the way we passed a statue commemorating Livingstone’s visit. Even in places several meters from the river it became impossible to stay dry because of the waterfall’s spray.
Our dinner spot was on a bluff above the Zambezi River. Above our table we could hear the chattering of something moving from tree limb to tree limb. Without warning a lean monkey dropped on our table and grabbed sugar packets with both hands before leaping back into the trees. After dinner my travel companion and I decided to follow a trail that led us to the edge of the Zambezi so we could take a few sunset photos of the river. After a few meters of walking, we heard footsteps and the soft voice of our waiter with a warning: “There are animals waiting at the banks of the river for something to eat.” We reconsidered the importance of the photos and returned to our hotel.
Among unusual souvenirs I purchased near the falls were Zimbabwean banknotes with denominations ranging from 500 million to five trillion dollars. Worthless today, the bills were printed in 2007 when Zimbabwe was experiencing a period of hyperinflation that peaked at 79,600,000,000% per month in mid-November 2008. Since 2008, the U.S. dollar has been the standard currency within the country. Before departing we visited the historic Victoria Falls Hotel, opened in 1904 to house railway workers. Today it is one of Africa’s finest luxury hotels with posh sitting and dining areas named after African explorers. As I sipped a Zambezi Lager on Stanley’s Terrace, I imagined what it might have been like to visit the hotel in the early 1900s.
Bound for Bulawayo, we boarded a night train that departed Victoria Falls Station at 7pm. Built in 1952, the exterior of our coach was painted with the red and tan colors of Rhodesian Railways (now Zimbabwe National Railways). Inside, our wood-paneled first-class cabin was equipped with a mirror, folding sink, and overhead bunk that folded into a bed. In the few hours of remaining daylight, we viewed scrubland and savanna from the window of our cabin. The train arrived in Bulawayo at 7am the following day.
If you are interested in learning more about Victoria Falls and the Cape-to-Cairo Railroad, please see my article: Reimagining Zimbabwe’s Cape-to-Cairo Railroad (© 2018 American Geographical Society).