Morocco. Exploring Volubilis: Western Outpost of the Roman Empire
Near the base of Morocco’s Zerhouan Mountains, the ancient city of Volubilis served as the Roman Empire’s westernmost colony. First settled by native Moroccans known as Berbers, the site was a Carthaginian trading center for three centuries before becoming capital of the Kingdom of Mauretania. Incorporated into the Roman Empire during the 1st century, Volubilis expanded along its northeast to southwest axis.
The Romans made considerable improvements, constructing temples, baths, a triumphal arch, and aqueduct to transport water into the city. Houses, bakeries, and shops were built along the city’s main street, known as Decumanus Maximus. With increased grain and olive exports, the city became wealthy. Another export were now extinct Atlas bears and Barbary lions used in other Roman provinces for brutal gladiatorial exhibitions. At its peak, the city supported a population of 20,000. Despite its success, the Roman Army was never able to subdue Berber tribes south of the Atlas Mountains and in 285, the city fell to local tribes. Subsequently, Volubilis was occupied Christians, followed by Muslim settlers. Abandoned in the 11th century, Volubilis was damaged by an earthquake in the 17th century and by looters who removal artifacts and stone. Although the French first excavated portions of the city in 1830, systematic archaeological explorations weren’t initiated until 1912.
Most visitors travel to Volubilis from the city of Fez, 84 kilometers to the east. Our bus trip from Fez took about two hours. As we approached the ancient city, the absence of settlements on the Jebel Zerhoun Plain accentuated the feeling of isolation that Roman settlers may have experienced. Arriving at the city’s south gate, we passed olive oil presses and Corinthian columns of Capitoline Temple, located on the west side of the forum. Built in 218 to honor the Roman gods Juno, Jupiter, and Minerva, the temple was dedicated to the Roman Emperor Macrinus. On the temple’s north side is a partially reconstructed basilica that served as an administrative center for magistrates. Once an imposing two-story building, the basilica’s stone arches extend along one side of the forum.
At the east end of Decumanus Maximus is the Arch of Caracalla, built by Governor Marcus Aurelius Sebastenus in 217 to honor Emperor Caracalla (emperor from 198 to 217). Fans of the 1970 movie Patton may recall a scene when the arch was used to represent ruins of ancient Carthage as actor George C. Scott (playing the role of General Patton) explained details of a battle fought during the Punic Wars.
Turning right we continued west on Decumanus Maximus and past the Galen Thermal Baths (aka North Baths). A stone rectangle with ten half-circles marks the center of the bathing area. Our final stop was the House of Venus with its impressive mosaic floor that tells the story of Diana and her nymphs being surprised as they bathed by the hunter Actaeon.
After visiting Volubilis we drove a few kilometers southeast for lunch in the town of Moulay Idriss. Spread out on the lower slopes of Mt. Zorhoun, Moulay Idriss contains the tomb of Idris I, a descendent of the Prophet Mohammad and the first major ruler of Morocco. In 789, Idris I established a Muslim settlement at the site of Roman Volubilis. Believing that the site of the old Roman settlement would be difficult to defend, he moved the city a few kilometers to the base of Mt. Zorhoun. With a population of about 12,000, Moulay Idriss is known for having the only cylindrical minaret in Morocco (part of Sentissi Mosque). Until 2005, it was forbidden for non-Muslims to remain in the city after 3pm.
