Morocco. Berber Villages of the High Atlas
The Atlas Mountains extend nearly 2,000 kilometers across North Africa, passing through Morocco, Algeria, and Tunisia. In Morocco alone the Atlas has four subranges: the Rif and Middle Atlas in the north, the High Atlas in the center, and the Anti-Atlas (aka Lesser Atlas) in the southwest. Forming a 1,000 kilometer east/west barrier, the High Atlas separates Morocco’s Atlantic coast from the drier Sahara to the south. Known by the Berber as Idraren Draren (mountains of mountains), Morocco’s seven tallest peaks including Toubkal (highest at 4,167 meters) are in the High Atlas. The region is home to Berber peoples who call themselves Amazigh and live in villages of flat-roofed houses made from stone and packed earth. The Amazigh of the High Atlas are principally involved in farming and herding with traditions passed to each generation through storytelling and music.
Departing Marrakech, the road zigzagged through steep valleys of red rock and between groves of cherry and walnut trees. Our hike began at the Amazigh village of Imlil, located 65 kilometers north of Marrakech. Imlil is built on a rocky slope at an elevation of 1,800 meters. Used in the 1997 film, Seven Years in Tibet (starring Brad Pitt), the village is a gateway for hikers seeking to climb Mt. Toubkul. Regrettably, Imlil is also known for the 2018 murders of two Scandinavian tourists who were kidnapped by Islamic terrorists.
The cool mountain breeze was a welcome change from the heat of Marrakech. Our modest hiking objective was the village of Sid Chamharouch, located part way up the side of Mt. Toubkul. From the trailhead we crossed a floodplain of the Asif N'au Mizane River that carries winter meltwater to the plains near Marrakech. Herd animals graze in the area between October and May. To enable grasses to regenerate, senior herdsmen enforce agdal, a policy that stipulates where and when animals are permitted.
On a hillside, the village of Aroumd could be seen just before we began our ascent up the rocky path leading to the Ait Mizane Valley and the 380 km2 Toubkal National Park. Established in 1942, the park protects mountain landscapes and unique vegetation such as Aleppo pine and Thuriferous juniper. Toubkul also has diverse wildlife that includes Barbary sheep, Magot monkeys, and Golden eagles.
It took two hours to reach Sid Chamharouch (elevation 2,350 meters). Perched high on the mountainside, the village has been a pilgrimage site since before the arrival of Islam in the 7th century. Passing a few shops and cafes, we crossed the river to see a shrine built to honor Shamhurish, believed by some to be a jinni (spirit) who was in contact with the Prophet Mohammad. Shamhurish’s remains are believed to be buried below a large white boulder topped by white and green flags. Adjacent to the shrine is a sign reminding visitors that non-Muslims are not allowed access to the adjacent mosque.
The small restaurant in Sid Chamharouch was offering lunch patrons the choice of a tagine or an omelet. I opted for the omelet and Cocoa Cola. After finishing lunch, my companions and I began the return hike to Imlil before boarding a bus back to Marrakech.
