Algeria. Rome’s Mountain City in North Africa
It’s unfortunate that Algeria isn’t a “must see” country for most tourists. Decades of political unrest that began with the country’s eight-year war of independence against France (1954-1962), have contributed to security concerns and an underdeveloped tourism industry. Despite challenges, Algeria has much to offer visitors including some of North Africa’s most impressive Roman ruins. One of these sites is Djemila, located in the Atlas Mountains, midway between the cities of Algiers and Annaba.
Originally known as Roman Cuicul, Djemila was founded in the 1st century during the reign of Emperor Nerva Trajan (53-117 AD). Built on a plateau near the confluence of two rivers, Djemila began as a military garrison and expanded during the 2nd century as it became a more important center for trade. Like other Roman settlements, the town had a forum surrounded by government buildings and two main streets, Cardo Maximus and Descumanus Maximus. Sometime during the 5th or 6th centuries the city was abandoned. Much of what is known about Djemila comes from archaeological work completed between 1910 and 1954. Since 1982, the city has been listed as a UNESCO World Heritage Site.
Our trip through northeastern Algeria began with finding a car and driver in Tunis, Tunisia. In the end, our local contact selected our driver on the basis of his “honest face.” In my experience, Tunisian cab drivers are second only to Egyptians in their aggressive driving tactics. The car’s horn is used frequently while hand gestures communicate state of mind along a continuum from mild irritation to heated rage. I found it best to look away when we accelerated to pass other vehicles on narrow mountain roads.
Because of the recent kidnappings of foreign tourists, Algerian authorities required solo and small group travelers to be escorted by local police. Crossing into Algeria west of Tunis, we had been instructed to request a police escort when we arrived at the town of Souarekh. Moving between jurisdictions, we repeated our routine of checking in at a police station to arrange an escort by a marked or unmarked police car. Thankful for the added security, we treated our police friends to meals. Arriving in the city of Annaba, we spent the night at an older high-rise hotel that was likely a five-star resort before the civil war.
We made a brief stop at Djemila’s museum before beginning our walk through the ruins. Inside the museum was a three-dimensional map of the site along with one of the best collections of Roman mosaic tiles I’ve ever seen. As we walked north, we passed ruins of a neighborhood built as Christianity spread through the Roman Empire during the 4th century. At its center was a domed baptistry and the foundations of a priest or bishop’s house. We continued past the foundations of other houses as we walked towards the Grand Baths and Arch of Caracalla. The arch was built in 216 to celebrate Emperor Caracalla who ruled between 198 and 217. Nearby, was the Severian Temple, named for Rome’s first African-born emperor.
We continued past the Temple of Venus Genitrix before reaching the forum. Surrounding the forum are ruins of public structures including the capital, municipal curia, and judicial building. On the north side are foundations of 18 shops of the Market of the Cosinius Brothers. Inside one was a table called a mensa ponderaria, used to measure liquid and solid foods such as cereal. On our return walk we passed a theater built on the rocky slope of a ravine that could hold 3,000 spectators. Built by Caius Julius Crescons and Caius Julius Didius Crescontinnus in 161, the theater was decorated with statues of Mars and Fortuna.
